London Fashion Week pays tribute to Queen after banning Monday parties

While big brands cancel shows, the disruption has a massive knock-on effect on smaller designers.

Death of the Queen and accession to the throne of King Charles – latest updates

London Fashion Week kicked off with a minute’s silence in tribute to Queen Elizabeth II at the Daniel W Fletcher show before a model in a black morning coat and matching bracelet took to the catwalk.

Remarkably different from the usual fashion fanfare, LFW attendees on Thursday night were relieved that it was actually happening.

Last week, there was a period where it was unclear if LFW would go ahead as it fell during the national mourning period and clashed with the royal funeral.

Within 24 hours of the queen’s death, Burberry, a royal warrant holder, declared that he was canceling her parade. Raf Simons, the Belgian designer and Prada co-creative director who typically shows up in Paris or New York (a big coup for LFW), was the second big name to drop out, walking out on a Friday night debut.

On Monday, the British Fashion Council, which LFW runs, issued a statement clarifying that fashion week would go ahead, albeit in a toned-down version with all shows scheduled for the day of the funeral rescheduled and parties banned.

For many new designers, the loss of established names like Burberry and strict new guidelines have had a huge ripple effect. “The biggest brands have the funds to do what they want, but small designers like me are hit hard,” said Dilara Findikoğlu, a Turkish-born, London-based designer whose show was moved from Monday to Saturday night. late, leaving her with two fewer Days to prepare.

After two years of disruption due to the pandemic coupled with uncertainty surrounding Brexit, the fashion industry was looking forward to this season.

The UK fashion industry is worth £32 billion to the country, and LFW is an excellent opportunity for designers to attract international press and buyers. The late Queen even recognized its importance in 2018 when she sat front row at Richard Quinn’s parade before presenting it with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design.

Findikoğlu, like many up-and-coming designers, had been working with a sponsor who would have covered most of his costs. They have now withdrawn, resulting in future debt. “Its very stressful. All the things I don’t want to have to worry about, I’m worrying about,” she said.

Designers and guests have been asked to take “the mood of the nation” into account. The BFC guidelines suggest withholding Instagram posts and street style photography until the mourning period is over.Sophie Mechaly, the founder of Paul & Joe, who has presented in Paris for over 15 years and in London for the past three, has rethought the soundtrack for her show, toning down its light-hearted mood while stylish touches will pay off. Tribute to the Queen

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