Fashion designs featuring regenerative “shirt to dirt” cotton and leather alternatives hit the catwalk outside the Pompidou Center
The Stella McCartney show, held in the public square in front of the Pompidou Center in Paris, was the most sustainable yet, but she hoped no one would notice.
“If I’m doing my job right, you shouldn’t see any sustainability,” the designer said backstage after the show. “It should be seen as the most luxurious and glamorous show. I don’t want it to look like sustainable fashion, I want it to look sexy, effortless and easy.”
There is an exception to the McCartney rule. In the front row next to his father, Paul, was Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of luxury goods company LVMH and the world’s third-richest man. McCartney hopes Arnault realizes that the sleek, baguette-shaped S-Wave “leather” shoulder bags were made from a grape-based alternative to leather, than this season’s version of the hit Frayme bag with its strap The oversized chain necklace was made with mycelium, the root-like structure of mushrooms, and that the crystals on model Bella Hadid’s mesh catsuit were solvent-free.
“I have this incredible seat at the table, and I want to use that seat to change fashion from within,” said McCartney, who won the position of Arnault’s special sustainability adviser when LVMH acquired a minority stake in his company three years ago. behind. “Mr. Arnault is not stupid. As you watch my show, you look at all these non-leather shoes, non-leather bags, non-leather jackets, you can compare what you’re looking at to the other brands. He can see that there is no visual sacrifice, or in the brand, or in the quality, in what I am doing”.
McCartney is trying to convince Arnault that grape skins from LVMH’s vineyards, which span 13 estates on four continents, could become the raw material for more alternative-leather fashion. “I want to infiltrate from within. I hope that’s possible.”
Regenerative cotton also made its runway debut, the result of a three-year pilot project in Turkey, which adopts a regenerative agriculture methodology for a cotton production process that captures carbon within the soil. Dubbed “dirt to shirt” in an attempt to reflect the success of the “farm to table” movement in food, regenerative agriculture is seen as a key frontier in the drive for sustainability in fashion, with others projects backed by Levi Strauss and Ralph Lauren. .
The outdoor setting for the show, which drew a large crowd, was a first for McCartney. “I wanted anyone who wanted to come see the show to be able to do so. My clothes are very wearable and accessible: the exclusivity of the fashion industry is not my environment. And the outdoors is my thing: I’m out in nature, in the elements, as much as I can.”
The primary colors of the Paris landmark were echoed in an extra-bright color palette. Yellow, which has been unusually strong during this month of fashion shows, was dubbed “limoncello” in flowing asymmetrical dresses and pantsuits over crystal bras.